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[Crocodile Dundee]

The Talawana Track is open but is now very corrugated.

Currently, the condition from Well 23 on the CSR, west to Cotton creek, is very corrugated for the first 60 km and is in reasonably good condition from there through to the Cotton creek turn-off.

From the Cotton Creek turn-off to Balfour Downs there are many heavily corrugated sections, a few sandy patches and some bends with reverse camber - caution is advised

Road Conditions: http://www.exploroz.com/infopages/RoadConditions_WA.asp

Info Report:
Participants:
DOUG and JUDY MARSHALL Nissan Patrol RRC
STEVE ESKILDSEN and PETER BLADIN Toyota Landcruiser RRC
STEVE VENDITTI Toyota Landcruiser RRC
SANDY BARENI Toyota Landcruiser RRC
ROGER LOWE and GERRY LOWE Land Rover Defender LROCV

Our aim on this trip was to head out west from Alice along the Tanami Road and the Gary Junction Road, then follow then Sandy Blight Junction track southward to pick up the Old Gunbarrel Highway. (We were to follow the track blazoned by Len Beadell as narrated in his book Beating about the Bush.) Continue west along the Old Gunbarrel through Jackie Junction, Everard Junction, then North onto the Gary Junction Hwy to Windy Corner then west onto the Talawana track to the Canning Stock Route coming in North of Well 24. The remainder of the trip was to explore the CSR from Well 24 down to Wiluna. In summary we were heading west from Alice to pick up the bottom half of the Canning Stock route. From my pretrip reading we were in for a very interesting insight into History.

Thanks to Norman's pre trip planning we were all presented beforehand with a daily itinerary pointing out areas of interest with their corresponding GPS points. With modern technology it is a lot easier to find areas that with out the availability of GPS units would have taken a lot of searching. Norman had also acquired the appropriate permits from the Aboriginal Affairs Planning Authority of Western Australia and Central Land Council of Northern Territory for us to transit Aboriginal Land.

Day 1 saw us leaving Alice early afternoon giving us just enough time to leave the bitumen behind and set up camp midway to Sandy Blight junction. It's always a relief to sit around that first campfire and relax, discussing the trip ahead, people's expectations, forgetting about time and everyday routine. The decision was made to stay on Melbourne time, which later on in the trip saw us rising at daybreak but with the advantage of camping early in the afternoon giving plenty of daylight to explore.
Day 2 saw us passing majestic Mount Russell to Sandy Blight Junction. The latter being named after an eye condition suffered by Len Beadell during the construction of Sandy Blight Junction road down to Giles mid 1960. After lunching at this historical marker we proceeded south and were amazed at how wet the area was. The main road had a fair amount of water on it so we followed the bypass tracks in most cases. However our luck was to run out only about 10 kilometres into the track. On one such bypass a corner was cut and down Sandy in the Landcruiser went. While we tried to snatch Sandy out, the track where Steve V had stopped in his Landcruiser had also started to give way. Meanwhile Norman had got through the bog and TEC decided to come nowhere near where we all were and proceeded to drive straight through the water down the original road and to our amazement made it reporting back that it seemed the better way to go. (This was later to be his downfall)



With 2 cars bogged and 2 cars now trying to winch, the bogged cars were immovable. Soon one of the winch cars was also bogged. Tools were downed and a team meeting was called. The way we were heading it seemed like we would be there all night. We decided to work on one car at a time, first unloading all the heavy gear (we were all carrying extra fuel, water and ample food and beverages.) Then the shovels to dig the mud away, air bag to enable us to jack the car to pack under the tyres and winch again. Finally we had success and both cars were on the move. However once the cars were mobile they weren't stopping until back on the main track, which meant in some cases carrying the unloaded items a distance back. This had of course occurred in the heat of the afternoon and we decided to find a camp spot for the night. Since TEC was now in the front of the convoy he had the job of finding a camp spot.

Finally we were all on the road again, glad that our few hours of vehicle recovery was over, looking forward to that first beer, a clean up and a good meal. However it was not meant to be. Over the UHF comes TEC with "don' t proceed " At this stage Doug and I decided to stop on a relatively dry level bit of road where we were confident we would not get bogged. On walking up the track we could see the landrover stationary, obviously bogged at least 100 meters into a long expanse of water covering the road. After wading through the water it was decided it was too risky to drive another vehicle in so once again we proceeded to unpack the Landrover, get out the shovels, push and winch form a distance. We finally set up camp where we had stopped on the road. It was 8.30 PM We had been recovering vehicles for 6 hours, with everyone helping and no short tempers. After all, we were on holidays and it was only the second day! - We had heaps of time. That night we decided that Steve E and Steve V would the following morning walk further down the track to check its condition. They were also to report on the possibility of maybe going inland and bypassing the area completely.

A new day dawns, the boys report back that for a least 2 kms a complete bog and very wet inland either side of track. Suggest we turn around. Norman undeterred, determined to bypass and continue down Sandy Blight Junction sends Roger off inland to walk in front of his car. We continue with breakfast just happy to be on dry land. 20 mins later out walks Roger, "Norman's bogged" We continue breakfast, no one wants to drive their car in after yesterdays events. Committee meeting ` will we leave him there?' No one is in a hurry to assist hoping someone else will. Doug and I walk in to assess the situation only to be met with ` where's your car?' We decide to stack under the tyres with spinifex and try to push him. Success, we move him several inches, call for more bodies to push and much to everyone's relief manage to get him going without bringing in another vehicle.

The decision is now unanimous we decide to turn around. We have 2 options, we either drive back into Alice and out through Uluru to Giles, a detour of 1200kms or we seek permission from the Aboriginal settlement of Kintore to use their bypass road which brings us back into Sandy Blight Junction Road further south via the back of mount Strickland. We decide to head for Kintore, only to be told that the track 3 weeks ago was fine but have had 2 inches of rain recently and not sure if anyone has travelled it since. Off we head only to find a very wet boggy track. Determined not to be beaten we once again spread out to walk the track and the surrounding inland only to all come to the same conclusion, it's back to Alice for the 1200km detour. Decision made we head off to get the kilometres behind us.

Back on the main road to Alice we pull over to help a family of aboriginals with car problems. While Peter and the boys assess the situation I stroll over to talk to the 2 women sitting on the side of the road. Without a word from me they laugh and point south and say `Wet, too much rain, you go Alice and Ayres rock, out that way." If only we'd known this a day earlier! Unable to fix their car we proceed on for our 1200km detour, camping not far from where we originally camped 2 nights previous. We were awoken at 4 am by 2 cars full of Aboriginals pulling up not far from our campsite and having a very loud altercation .By all reports the following morning 1 wasn't the only one with the adrenaline flowing and increased heartbeat!

Our 1200km detour saw a brief stop in Alice, bonus camp at Erldunda (motel for some) then lovely views of Ulura and the Olgas to pick up the north end of Sandy Blight Junction road via Lasseter's cave and Docker River. Overnight camp at Bungabiddy Rockhole the north end of Sandy Blight Junction road (our original plan) where we had a very refreshing dip. That night we sat and contemplated what the road between here and our overnight campsite where we had winched for hours would have been like. Since we were already behind schedule because of our detour it was decided we'd leave it for another trip.

Next day fuelled up at Warakurna Roadhouse (our last fill until the fuel dump on the Canning) then headed for Giles on the edge of the Gibson Desert in Western Australia. Here we were lucky enough to have an escorted tour of the Weather Station. This was named after Ernest Giles the explorer who in the 1876 succeeded in crossing the centre of Australia west to east. Giles was established in 1956. It was originally set up to provide weather information for the atomic weapons tests at Emu Plains and Maralinga. It was also used to support the rocket testing at Woomera before it was taken over by the Bureau of Meteorology in 1972. It is now a vital link for Australia's weather reports. Also on display is the Caterpillar grader used by Len Beadell and his crew to build over 6000 kilometres of road including the Gunbarrel highway. There is also a huge piece of interesting rocket debris from Woomera rocket range.

Proceeded along the Old Gunbarrel Highway pass the Rawlinson range and Lake Christopher to Jackie Junction. The road was very corrugated and at times surrounded by many wildflowers. Camels were in abundance, and at one stage saw a herd of at least 100. At one lunch stop along the way a camel actually walked between the cars! At this stage the corrugations started to cause minor mechanical damage to some of the cars (listed at end of report) so some running repairs were made. We checked out Margi Rockholes where there was an abundance of finches. We had breathtaking 360-degree panoramic views from various points along the Gunbarrell. Overnight camp was at the base of Mt Beadell. On its summit is a memorial to Len Beadell and a replica of his theodolite.

Passing through the Gibson Desert via Everard Junction onto the Gary highway, the road was very corrugated and washed out. We exercised our legs to check out the caves on Charles knob and observe the surrounding views, which included Desert Oaks, wild flowers, spinifex, sand and rock for as far as the eye could see. A slight detour to camp at McPherson's Pillar a small rocky knoll where once again the 360-degree view was spectacular. At this stage a few slow tyre leaks had developed so camp that night saw some tyre maintenance being attended to.

On the road again, past lake Cohen to Windy corner where we turned west along the Talawana track to the Canning. The track was very overgrown in places. Along the way we saw lots of grevilleas, wattles, flowers, sand dunes and salt pans, all very picturesque. So much in fact Steve V lost concentration trying to video a 360-degree panorama and drove straight into a salt pan. A good laugh and a quick bit of recovery we were on our way again. Overnight camp on the Canning.

Travelling in our modern day 4WD vehicle with its GPS, HF radio, refrigerator, and all the comforts of home we can only imagine the hardship and suffering the early explorers went through to develop the CSR. It is hard to comprehend their endeavour, determination and endurance through what a lot of people call Australia's harshest terrain. Canning surveyed the route in 1906 and in March 1908 construction began. There was a market for Kimberley cattle in the south where the gold mining was taking off thus a stock route needed to be established.

We started at Well 26, a fully restored well with good water and proceeded right down to well 1. Much of our route crossed the Little Sandy Desert. Some of the wells have been fully restored, while the majority are in various degrees of disrepair with some just a dent in the ground. One can observe the different woods used in the construction of the wells with desert oak being originally used by Canning. Although we visited every well (except well 20) I will limit my report to just a few. Well 26 (Tiwi Well) was reconstructed in 1983 and has good water. The trough, timber, windpole windlass and buckets are reproductions of the 1908 construction.

From Well 26 to the fuel dump south of well 24 was open plains and burnt out country. We encountered most of the Canning burnt out and consequently spinifex was not a problem. This meant that we could see much of the surrounding countryside and wild flowers were in abundance. We found our drums at the fuel dump and most of us had to leave some fuel behind, not using as much as expected. Proceeded to Georgia bore where there was a crowd of people so we move on.

Passing alongside Lake Disappointment we were blinded by the sun reflecting from the shimmering white expanse which seemed to go for miles. We walked out on the lake looking for fossilised insects of which we found many.

Down to Savoury Creek where we assessed the crossing. Norman was determined to get across since his previous trip to the Canning had ended here. After walking the crossing the best route was chosen and off we went. TEC decide to unload his vehicle and walk the heavy objects across, having no difficulty whatsoever. Only one Landcruiser had to be winched being "hung up" by the spare tyre under the car. We decide to celebrate by finding a spot in the creek to have a refreshing dip. For anyone that has every swam in the Dead sea it is a very similar experience, the salt content enabling anyone to easily stay afloat. Refreshed and moving on, still with Lake Disappointment in view we passed through claypans and desert oak and continued over the sand dunes enjoying the views.

Just south of Well 18 we were stopped by Norman's comment "there's a vehicle stuck on the next dune do not proceed." Out we all trooped and to our amazement we saw a Ute with tyres hanging from every conceivable position, packed with swags, jerries and boxes. He was trying to pull out a Nissan that was towing a trailer full of equipment. These vehicles were the back up crew for 10 trail bike riders riding from the beginning of the Canning to Well 23. They had over catered and were trying to give their fuel away, anything to lighten the load. The Ute had no problem getting over the dune so we tried to winch the Nissan and trailer over but to no avail. The trailer was unhitched and the Nissan winched over followed by much pushing and winching to get the trailer over.

Of course we just finished all the hard work (1 and ½ hours) when the trail bike riders turned up and wondered why we were drinking their beer. We quickly moved on and out of range before they hit the next dune since we didn't think they would get far.

A walk into Onegunyah rockhole with not much water then a detour off the CSR to Diebel springs and hills .A quick look for the springs late into the day was unsuccessful so we followed up with a breathtaking walk up the escarpment of the gorge the following morning. The view from the escarpment was well worth the effort.

Back on the main CSR track to Killagurra gorge and spring with its aboriginal rock art and crystal clear water. It is an aboriginal sacred site. While exploring this area we come across Ronele and Eric Gard the authors of the book Canning Stock Route. They are currently updating their latest edition. We catch up with them again at Durba springs where they ask our help in pulling a fallen tree out of the river. We oblige and in return ask them to autograph their book, which we have borrowed from the Club library. They are impressed that we have the first edition, as it is apparently hard to come by, they don't even have one!

Durba Springs is a welcome camp spot under the ghost gums surrounded by the shear red cliffs of the gorge. An ideal spot to rest and enjoy, consequently we stayed 2 nights, enjoying the walk into the gorge for a swim, walks up the escarpment for the breathtaking views and observing the carvings on the rock walls. Up until our rest day the weather had been lovely sunny days however while at Durba the wind picked up, the only thing to spoil our paradise.



Leaving Durba we headed for Biella springs for once again a lovely walk into the gorge, viewing the aboriginal art on the walls while making our way to a rockhole which held minimum water. Back on the CSR to Canning's Cairn, a brief walk from the car park for once again some spectacular views of the surrounding hills and plains. Once again headed off the CSR to the Calvert Range about 40 kms eat of well 16, driving right around the range, setting up camp and then walking in to observe a lot more aboriginal art.

Proceeding back to the CSR pass Wells 16, 15, 14, 13 and 12 the road was very corrugated in areas. An abundance of flowers and salt pans.

Next day saw us leaving the sand dune country through many dry creek crossings pass wells 10,9 8 and 7 for a climb up Inglebong hills where we could see Well 6 Pierre Springs, Mt Davis and Mt Salvado in the distance. Inglebond hills consists of an ancient ocean bed, it has very unusual rock formation. Overnight camp at lovely Pierre Springs among the red gums with its fully restored well with good water. A refreshing shower was had by all.

The following day saw us travelling down the remaining wells to well 3 for overnight camp at once again a fully restored well among the river gums. During the day we observed wells 3a 4a and 4b which were sunk by Snell because of the long distance between the original Canning wells. It was interesting to notice the different construction.

Proceeding down the CSR along some rocky areas we come to Well 2a known as the Granites. It had been dug out of rock and was surrounded by wildflowers. On to Well 2 then down to North pool a lovely spot on the Negrara creek. However due to its easy accessibility in want of a clean up. A deviation out to Well 1 for the final episode and a well-earned beer! Into Wiluna another beer in the local hotel and off on the long trip home.

Overall we covered a varying landscape, rich in mulga, spinifex, salt pans and stone country. Due to fire over a vast area of the countryside an array of wild flowers of all colours could be easily seen contrasting against the red sands of the desert. White, purple and yellow were in abundance. Beautiful clear star-studded nights and early vibrant sunrises topped this off. Wild life was in abundance with camels, emus, bustards, kangaroos, bats, thornydevils, lizards, feral cats, and many varieties of birds, insects and butterflies observed.

Thanks go to Norman for a well-planned trip. Roger for his part as TEC. Gerry and his apprentice Steve V for providing us with a `cooking fire' each night. Peter and his sleeping companions _ cable ties and CRC- for the running mechanical repairs on the cars, humour and knowledge of the area. Steve E for having our billy boiled for us every morning. Sandy for keeping the boys in line and Doug for taking me along (not that he had a say in it!)
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